Reimagining Philadelphia

CAN PHILADELPHIA BECOME THE NEXT BIG THING IN FASHION?

Photo by Trevor Adams from Pexels

It was a Friday afternoon, in March, when I spoke, over Zoom, with Erin Winward, a recent BFA Fashion and Apparel Design graduate from Moore College of Art and Design. A framed fashion sketch on her wall, which was her own, depicts women wearing bustiers, flared pants, transparent po- et-sleeved blouse, and slip dress and trench in tones of red and black, à la the 90s. Her portfolio looks professional and shows aesthetics that range from Victorian, rock-and-roll edgy and hippy silhouettes. While her taste level also seems suited for success, she doesn’t currently have a position in the industry. Struggles and obstacles of this nature are common amongst Philadelphia’s fashion professionals, but why is this the case?

The illustrations (above) and image (below) are of Erin Winward’s junior year collection

(Illustrations by and Courtesy of Erin Winward; Photograph by Victoria Gallagher, and Courtesy of Erin Winward)

Despite possessing commonalities with New York, including a bustling art scene and a plethora of retailers and niche businesses, Philadelphia has yet to fully invest in the fashion arena. Philadelphia doesn’t lack talent and once had a stronger fashion presence, but in its current state, a few additional steps will need to be taken for this field to thrive. The current pandemic has ushered in a focus on digital presentations. With the industry less bound to traditional fashion capitals, now is the time for Philadelphia to prove that it can be a contender. With a little finessing, combined with the passion and efforts of hard-working local professionals, this city can reach this potential.

Philadelphia was once a production location, between the 19th and 20th centuries, and also possessed professionals in the tailoring, hat, and garment construction industries, as detailed within Google’s exhibition slideshow “Philadelphia In Style.” In the late 1800s, John Wanamaker and his business were significant to this city’s role in fashion, as observed and detailed in the PBS.org article, “Who Made America? – John Wanamaker.” As an early purveyor tied to the establishment of “department stores,” he created Wanamaker’s, which sold a variety of goods, intended to address the needs of high-end clientele, as detailed by PBS. Unfor- tunately, as discussed in the article “Fashion,” by Clare Sauro, changes occurred in produc- tion and “trade,” causing Philadelphia to lose its footing within the industry.

However, an interest in fashion has resurged in this area, due to a few developments. Philly Fashion Week was established in 2006, according to Elizabeth Wellington’s article “Philly Fashion Week Starts Soon in the New Fashion District. Here’s what you need to know.,” and now has a designated fashion venue. At this location, the Fashion District Philadelphia, the community can shop major and local brands and attend fashion week. There are also educational opportunities at institutions including Drexel, The Made Institute, and Thomas Jefferson University that have fashion programs. There are also organizations such as Fashion Group International and Philadelphia Fashion Incubator connecting professionals to important resources, networking, and information.

The images that are seen here, and above, are of Philadelphia’s Fashion District, which serves as a shopping and event venue. Philly Fashion Week shows take place here. Under this roof, shoppers will find a combination of established brands, local companies, and vendors. Photographs by and Courtesy of Anthony Furber

Gregory Jerome, an image consultant, embodies the fervor that Philadelphia’s professionals have regarding the city’s potential to be a fashion industry titan. Jerome has a vibe about him that exudes experience, and his look suggests professionalism, but without being too business formal. While we were speaking, he was sporting a Ralph Lauren tan cotton safari jacket, paired with a rust-colored sweater. When discussing the challenges that Philadelphia’s fashion industry faces, Jerome expressed that many in his community “fail to value their appearance, their personal brand, and even sometimes their company brand.” He then adds, “It is a challenge to persuade people to understand that their brand and image are highly important to personal and professional success.” However, Jerome admits that financial constraints also factor into whether or not people participate in this effort or are able to seek styling services.

“I just believe Philadelphia needs to just try to reidentify themselves, and how does that look? How do you represent this city? What is this city known for? ... Can you transform it?”- Gregory Jerome

The images above are examples of Gregory Jerome's styling work Images are Courtesy of Gregory Jerome

Elisha Carter, the designer of Her Fine Basics shapewear, a collection consisting of neutral colored leggings, undergarments, and leotards, faces another set of challenges within the industry. Carter feels that Philadelphia is a difficult market to break into due to its expensive retail spaces, and the hesitance that local retailers have when it comes to taking a chance on selling products from lesser-known brands. She also adds that local publications are not highlighting local companies enough and tend to instead focus on big brands.

Elissa Bloom, the executive director of the Philadelphia Fashion Incubator, whose resume includes experience in product design, and an accessory line of products such as coin purses adorned with whimsical human depictions, addresses similar concerns regarding the industry. The organization she works for trains designers for a year and helps provide them with mentorship, business strategies, and retail opportunities. According to Bloom, when building a business in this area, fashion designers face challenges that relate to the need for continuous “access to grants, funding, and selling opportunities.”

Despite these challenges, there are some positive aspects that Philadelphia has to offer. Regarding Philadelphia’s assets, Carter states, “I love how inclusive they [Philadelphia’s designers] are; every race, every size, males, females, transgenders, and that’s something we haven’t seen in a lot of New York Fashion Week shows. They could learn a little something from Philly and what they’re doing.” As for another strength of Philadelphia, Bloom and Jerome both feel that there is an established community of fashion professionals already present within this area. Bloom adds that the Philadelphia Fashion and Garment Industry Task Force, to which she is “a founding member,” also is working to address industrial sustainability and help designers find manufacturers.

“For Philly fashion week, what I think is unique about it is are the designers...I love how inclusive they are...every race, every size, males, females, transgenders... and that’s something we haven’t seen in a lot of New York Fashion Week shows...They could learn a little some- thing from Philly and what they’re doing.” - Elisha Carter

The images above show products by HerFineBasics

(Images Courtesy of Elisha Carter).

Where does Philly go from here? Jerome suggests that the fashion industry could benefit from emphasizing the significance of the industry and establishing a local aesthetic identity, as other fashion destinations such as New York have done. He states, “I just believe Philadelphia needs to... try to re-identify” itself, “ how does that look? How do you represent this city? What is this city known for? Can you transform it?” While Jerome addresses Philadelphia’s stylistic identity, Winward expressed that the city needs more networking opportunities, to expand its fashion district, and make better use of technology.

While there is room for improvement, with additional resources and affordable retail spaces needed, Philadelphia has the ability to become a bigger fashion influence, given the recent industrial innovations. These changes can also address the city’s flaws in its talent promotion. As the business focuses more on digital presentations, due to the Covid19 circumstances, there is a chance for areas beyond the fashion capitals to establish their presence in this market. Philadelphia has numerous universities that offer artistic programs. Individuals with a background in areas such as graphic design, photography, and videography could collaborate with local fashion professionals to create innovative presentations for promotional purposes. With the assistance of individuals that have experience in social media, these efforts could bring national-level attention to Philadelphia’s fashion industry.

The images seen here are of Philadelphia’s Fashion District, which serves as a shopping and event venue. Philly Fashion Week shows take place here. Under this roof, shoppers will find a combination of established brands, local companies, and vendors.

Photograph by and Courtesy of Anthony Furber

“I think they have a lot for fashion...I think you just kind of have to find it. It’s more hidden than say, New York" - Erin Winward

Winward explains, “I think they have a lot for fashion. I think you just kind of have to find it. It’s more hidden than say, New York.” Even though she is still looking for employment within the industry, having previously held merchandising and fashion retail positions, she acknowledges that it is possible to establish a career in fashion here. The progressions made thus far, including the city’s developing fashion district, programs for nurturing talent, and the Philadelphia Fashion and Garment Industry Task Force, demonstrate that this city is on the right path.

Works Cited: Carter, Elisha. HerFineBasics. Squarespace, n.d., HerFineBasic.com, Accessed 20 Mar. 2021.

Google Arts & Culture Editors. “Philadelphia in Style.” Google Arts & Culture, Google, 2016,https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/philadelphia-in-style-the-robert-and-penny-fox- historic-costume-collection-at-drexel-university/RgLytiVLvSYgKw?hl=en, Accessed 20 Mar. 2021.

PBS.org Editors. “Who Made America? – John Wanamaker.” They Made America, PBS, n.d.,https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/theymadeamerica/whomade/wanamaker_hi.html, Accessed 20 Mar. 2021.

Sauro, Clare. “Fashion.” Rutgers University, 2017, The Encyclopedia of Greater Philadelphia, WordPress, https://philadelphiaencyclopedia.org/archive/fashion/, Accessed 21 Mar. 2021.

Wellington, Elizabeth. “Philly Fashion Week Starts soon in the new Fashion District. Here’s what you need to know.” The Philadelphia Inquirer, The Philadelphia Inquirer, 18 Sept. 2019, https://www.inquirer.com/things-to-do/philly-fashion-week-2019-events-kevin-parker-kerry-scot t-20190918.html, Accessed 22 Mar. 2021.

Report this