While maintaining the brand’s ladylike tendencies, this collection has a sense of activeness
The Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection of Luisa Beccaria was set in the midst of two games of badminton, taking place on the lawns bordering the pavement walkway. A piece of chiffon fabric with a lace border was used as a badminton net. The collection to follow would allude to the industry’s current athleisure trend, discussed and described by Andria Cheng and Chip Wilson on Forbes.com, through its nods to sporty badminton, or tennis, skirts, and dresses.
However, despite the collection’s sportier look with its use of cotton, drop-waist dresses, pleated skirts, sweaters tied about the neck, flat shoes, and athletic headbands, it did not shy from the established brand characteristics. These aesthetics are what Beccaria describes as “...feminine, new romantic…,” and sophisticated,” in an interview with Alain Elkann.
Beccaria’s ladylike side remained present in the collection’s use of floral prints, lace, eyelet, floral appliques, chiffon dresses, and lingerie-inspired looks. Her “Romantic” tendencies, as defined in The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion, remain in the collection’s use of fluid chiffons, ruffles, and frills on sleeves and dress hems, as described in this work and the Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers.
The collection’s dynamic element was its silhouettes. Some examples were tailored others were fluid. Sleeves ranged from form-fitted to voluminous.
The collection’s palette consisted of colors such as beige, white, pale ceruleum, pastel purple, pink, slate blue, and red-violet. Many of these colors were incorporated into the prints of ribbed opaque, lace, or eyelet textiles. Some of the florals, depicted within these textiles, appeared to be hand-painted or printed. A few tailored drop-waist ribbed white dresses that were printed with pale cerulean bows.
Overall, the collection was a sporty twist on Beccaria’s trademark aesthetics. The collection has an enduring appeal, with aesthetics that could easily transition from one time period to another.
Works Cited:
Callan, Georgina O’Hara and Cat Glover. Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers, 2nd ed, London: Thames & Hudson, 2008.
Cheng, Andria. “More Signs the Athleisure Trend Isn’t Slowing Anytime Soon.” Forbes, 26 Sept. 2019 , https://www.forbes.com/sites/andriacheng/2019/09/26/more-signs-the-athleisure-trend-isnt-slowing-any-time-soon/#4d986dff1691, Accessed 17 Nov. 2019.
Elkann, Alain. “The Woman of Now: A Romantic Woman in a World of Luxury.” Luisa Beccaria, n.d., https://luisabeccaria.it/lifestyle/a-romantic-woman-in-a-world-of-luxury/, Accessed 15 Nov. 2019.
“Luisa Beccaria - Spring Summer 2020- Full Show.” YouTube, uploaded by FF Channel, 26 Sept. 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGMa3EaIzlY, Accessed 17 Nov. 2019.
Tortora, Phyllis G. and Sandra J. Keiser. The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Fashion. 4th ed., New York and London: Bloomsbury and Fairchild Books, 2014.
Wilson, Chip. “Why the Word ‘Athlesiure’ Is Completely Misunderstood.” Forbes, 18 Apr. 2018, https://www.forbes.com/sites/chipwilson/2018/04/18/why-the-word-athleisure-is-completely-misunderstood/#227e085e4697, Accessed 17 Nov. 2019.
Video Citation:
“Luisa Beccaria - Spring Summer 2020- Full Show.” YouTube, uploaded by FF Channel, 26 Sept. 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGMa3EaIzlY, Accessed 17 Nov. 2019.
Source: FF Channel's YouTube Channel
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