Hyke Demonstrates How to Create Minimalist Garments that are far from Dull
Hyke’s collection from Spring 2020, presented during Tokyo Fashion Week, consists of variations on outerwear staples, and unadorned surfaces, with construction details, like pleats, pockets, and fringe, contributing the highest impact. The characteristics of this collection remain consistent with the brand’s hallmarks, through its interpretations of the trench coat, other elements of “..traditional American workwear...” as described by Kristin Anderson of Vogue, and minimalistic tendencies, noted by Eri Koizumi of Woolmark.com. According to Hyke’s designers, Yukiko Ode and Hideaki Yoshihara, as quoted by Koizumi, they are “...influenced by older things...” including “...work, military, sports, or other uniforms...” and they then “...analyze...” and mentally dissect these garments, “...and ...rework them into new forms...”.
The standout interpretations of Hyke’s trademarks, from the Spring 2020 season, include hybrids such as a cape trench coat, and lace-up front hoodie trench coat, with a gathered hem. Another unique piece, in the collection, was a cropped, button-down shirt, with a gathered hemline, which was an exploration of “...oxford shirts...” an additional brand staple, noted by Anderson. A pale cerulean mandarin collared shirtdress, with trench coat style belt, and pleated wrapped skirt, is another noteworthy piece.
The collection offers a variety of silhouettes and fits. Some garments have a relaxed tailored fit, while others are even less constricted. Some garments have waistlines that are cinched, while others are undefined. The collection does not veer into the territory of extreme volume variations, which allows the presentation to feel seamless.
The collection utilizes denim, wool, khaki, and cotton. Finally, there are also garments that appear to be made from leather, or animal product-free alternative, and chiffon.
The color palette of the collection consists of neutral tones such as black, navy, white, tan, cool, and French greys. However, the collection also featured pale cerulean blue and pink. Black, white, and tan combinations were observed in paint splatter prints.
Overall, Hyke’s collection is brand consistent and manages to balance minimalist tendencies with ingenuity. Finally, these pieces have a timeless quality about them, due to their lack of ornamentation, which will allow them to meet the needs of sustainability.
Works Cited:
Anderson, Kristin. “Two On-the-Rise Japanese Brands You Need to Know Now.” Vogue, Condé Nast, 25 Sept. 2015, https://www.vogue.com/article/hyke-mame-japanese-fashion-brands, 1 Dec. 2019.
Fuji, Shoji (Photographer). Hyke Runway Collection, Tokyo Spring 2020, Looks 1- 48, Tokyo, Vogue, Condé Nast, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/tokyo-spring-2020/hyke#collection , Accessed 1 Dec. 2019.
Koizumi, Eri. “Fashion: Inside the World of Hyke.” The Woolmark Company, n.d., https://www.woolmark.com/news/fashion/inside-the-world-of-hyke/, Accessed 1 Dec. 2019.
Video Citation:
"HYKE 2020 S/S Collection - Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2020 S/S." YouTube, uploaded by Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO on 15 Nov. 2019, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhUpioh85hQ, Accessed 4 Mar. 2020.
Source: Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO's YouTube Channel